Day 10-kauai

After nine days of doing things on my own schedule, I joined forces with another traveler and practiced patience and flexibility!  I also got all the benefits of traveling with another, such as pictures(!!!!!), conversation, and other perspectives.

The deal was:  I join her on a hike, and she joins me paddle boarding!  And in one whirlwind of the day, we got it all in :)

The first two miles of the kalalau trail went by quickly and then we got to the first river crossing where the waterfall trail breaks off from the K trail that I had already done. 

These two miles were interesting.  Not nearly as much climbing and descending, but much more roots and trees to climb over and around and some amazing rock hopping over river crossings.  We probably passed ten little or middle sized waterfalls as well as a handful of pools.

The final waterfall was so huge-much bigger than I expected with a huge pool at the bottom.  We took a ton of pictures and some people got in and swam under the falls. 

We were in a bit of a hurry and had spent a lot of time at the beach (where people had stacked hundreds of cairns), plus, the weather was overcast so we skipped it.

If I was to come back, I would take the whole (sunny) day and walk the trail nice and slow stopping at all the pools. 

We then got an amazing hotdog (anthony bourdain recommended) with pineapple relish. 

Finally we got out in the water to play on the board.  They gave us a very nice board-for paddle boarding and surfing-a little difficult for yoga.  The foot grippers in the front did not go far enough out for most poses and although wide, it was shorter than a pb that one would want for yoga. 
The waves were also crazy and along with wind blowing a storm in, paddling was a bit crazy.

This last day was wonderful and a bit stressful, but I got on my plane and ended my trip happily.

Day9-kauai

I spoiled myself today and went on a catamaran ride.  The boat went up the Napali coast, over to Ni'ihau (private island) and then stopped for snorkeling and scuba. I signed up for snorkeling, because I didn't even know that scuba was an option.  But then I heard a couple canceling because of a cold and I asked if I could upgrade.  I was warned that I'd be diving with beginners, therefore the dive would be short and shallow, but I had read that n was a good place to dive so I signed up. 

 The trip was long and a lot were getting seasick, but...we saw a group of northern pacific humpback whales and a big pod of spinner dolphins.  The whales included a mom and baby with a few others and one kept slapping it's dorsal fin.  We also saw a nose and a tail pop out!!!!

The dive sight was beautiful, but I didn't see any of the big life that is possible there.  I then snorkeled for a bit before the journey back.

I went right to Poipu where I saw a huge turtle hanging out on the beach.  I snorkeled a bit there then rented a surfboard for an hour.   I think I found the one activity that I don't enjoy doing by myself.  Maybe it's because I'm such a beginner, or because I have always had someone else out there with me, or maybe (I hate to say it) I don't really love surfing.  

I can catch (small) waves pretty consistently, I get up on my knees all the time and sometimes I even hop to my feet.  I even love the work of paddling out!  I just haven't caught the bug yet.   I will never give up and maybe I'll learn to love it, but it was a bit of a sufferfest for me today.

I'm pretty red with all the water activities today AND I still haven't SUPed!!! So tomorrow I have that as my one goal before I hop on a plane.  I met someone today who asked me to go with her to the waterfall that's at the beginning of the Kalalau trail.  You have to do the first two miles of K trail, then 2miles to the falls as a detour from the trail.  I had skipped it before because of my blisters and because there were so many people.  I told her I'd join her if she'd go early.  

This will put me at 61 trail or running miles for the trip.  A little more if you count in the day to day walking.  I knew I'd be hiking, but because of the weather, I got more in than I had expected.  There were just too many raining days to have much beach time.  

Extra bonus, Jill (my hiking pal for tomorrow). Said I could shower at her hotel before I hop on the plane.  I told her my seat mates on the plane thank her BECAUSE, don't barf, I haven't washed my hair since Wednesday the 18th. I've done some shower/rinses at the beaches and campsites, but my hair will have been in the same "bun/nest" for ten days 😱

Kauai day 8

I slept last night on top of the Waimea Canyon in my hammock in the campground.  It was the first time I was cold at night!  There were a couple of other fams there, but it was pretty sparse.  

I got on the Nua lolo trail early, but, about a mile in, I realized that I was struggling to find the trail.  This one is not as well maintained as most.  Also, I learned the night before that the Awa awapuhi trail had an amazing viewpoint.  I turned, climbed out and drove over to A.  The three miles dropped 1500 and had some pretty views.  

Even though I was in Waimea, I was hiking over the kalalau valley.  When I got to the vista, I enjoyed the view of the finger mountains that shoot through the valley.  Then I saw some goats chilling on an extension past the fence.  It looked pretty safe and I was alone, so I ducked around and yelled to the goats that I was a'coming for them.  The first few minutes were slippery but wide, then there was a very narrow rocky spot that I had to use my hands to cross...I looked down...I couldn't even see the bottom it was so steep.  It reminded me of Angels landing in Zion.  Pure drop off.  I walked/crawled a bit more until I came to an open rock.  

This ended up being the most surreal moment so far of my trip.  I was on one of the fingery mountains with sheer nothingness on both sides.  There was no one to be seen but my goat friends.  There was a waterfall to my left that I hadn't seen before and the ocean opening up in front of me with clear skies. What made it even more dream like was the helicopters,  there must have been 20 that passed while I was there.  A few flew over me, but most were below me going on both side of my "finger"cliff and looking at the waterfall.  I can't imagine how I looked:  A pink spot at the end of a narrow cliff.  

I stayed for a long time, I did some hot poses for passing copters and my goat buddies, and then I finally headed back.  Incredibly, a guy had just walked up, pulled out his camera and caught me crawling back at the most narrow spot!! (I gave him my email, I hope hope hope he sends it!!)

The 3 miles up flew by with my head feeling so grateful.  Also, I passed quite a few groups as I was leaving.  This hike was not that hard so there were all types, and I was so thankful I had left early and had had the ledge to myself.

I also did the popular hike to Waipo'o falls.  4 miles round trip, more crowded, but beautiful canyon views.  The view of the waterfall was just a mini part where it pools, and lots of people were getting in.  

On the trail to the falls.

View from the vista before I noticed the goats that you can barely see here.  I decided to follow them out there.

Looking down.

From the tip looking right.

The tip I was standing on dropped below and then continued forward-ahhhh!

As I was walking to the tip-following my goat buds.

Waterfall to my left.  Where all the helicopters were flying under me to get in close.

Walking back, the goats reclaimed their spot.

The next ridge over.

Kauai day 7

I woke to an overcast sky and decided to knock some tourist trap sights off the list.  The night before, I had started freaking out that triple blister toe was infected and would have to be cut off.  I'm not usually a hypochondriac, but I have had a blister get infected and shoot streaks up my leg before.  I looked up the nearest doctor and decided that if it was still painful, red, and swollen in the morning, I would go in.  

Fortunately my attempt at first aid and the nights rest helped a lot and I was walking just fine.

I saw a ton of sights today, so I'm just going to list them with a quick description.

Shipwreck Beach:my friend Peter cliff dived here and I wanted to too, but seas were rough and no one was there

Makawehi bluff Path:  a flat path with varied terrain that was surprisingly beautiful-it Meandered along the cliffs edge

*after all the hiking the last 2 days, my brain was going silly.  This path was so entertaining to me.  First, I saw giant snails which I used my best British accent to appreciate their size, ie.  Gargantuan beast, hefty bugger, thick sloppy, and so on.  This entertained me until I came across a golf sign that used the phrase "errant balls".  I came up with many new ways to include this phrase into my vocabulary.  Lastly, I found a chair on the side of a cliff and proceeded to ask every family/group/person (it got very crowded on my way back) who passed, "did you put my chair here??!!" 

Mahaulepu Cave:  nothing spectacular, but very well maintained "guided by pamphlet" nature walk

Spouting Horn:  cool hole in the rocks that sprays, lots of tourists here, get in get out

Glass beach:  I used to tease my ex that sea glass is smooth trash.  

Salt pond park: pretty, but not spectacular 

Polihale:  huge beach at the end of a bumpy dirt road.  I bet this is a beautiful beach out in the middle of nowhere, but today it was rainy, windy, empty, and the waves were all over the place.

Waimea town:  less ritzy than Hanalei bay, I saw a laundromat here and I threw my stuff in.  I can deal with dirt, but my stuff was sweaty, muddy, damp and just nasty.  I was happy to walk around the town while my clothes got free of their stench!

Drive to Waimea canyon:  this drive is amazing!! Endless ocean on one side, random unexpected canyon on the other.  The road twists, turns, dips and quickly gains altitude.  I loved it.

Waimea lookouts:  it was already 4 here so most of the crowds had died down.  I imagine all the lookouts get crazy crowded.  I stopped at every one!  This canyon is beautiful with waterfalls and even a rainbow!  And then I got the the last two lookouts that looked over Kalalau valley where I had just hiked.  At first you could see nothing but clouds and people were leaving, but I waited, hoping for the clouds to clear, and I ended up getting a gorgeous view of the valley.  I could see where I had once stood! I would have never have thought a couple days ago that there were masses of people looking over this tiny part of the trail-so cool.

My goal here was to get to all the lookouts, spot the trailheads, pick up a trail map, and then make camp at Koke'e campground. I successfully completed all but getting a trail map.  The office was closing and the map that they did have had no trail descriptions :(. 

I did ask one question:  which trail should I do to see the K valley (there are a couple). She looked at me and suggested I take some easier trails as "Nu'alolo is the hardest one we have".  Guess I know which trail I'm starting with tomorrow!!!!

Kauai-day 5-6- Kalalau trail

I woke up really early and tried to stay in the car (nightmares from mosquito-gedden haunted my dreams.  But when another car whipped in, I hopped out and did all my final preps.  Guess what-no rain to have to start the trail in!

I don't even remember the first two miles, it was still just getting light and I was going at a really good pace.  I did the first river crossing at mile two with no problem and I wanted to take advantage of the lack of rain.  Mile three and four had beautiful ocean views (it was still clear!) and there was a huge waterfall in the distance.  

Somewhere in the second mile, I passed the couple before me (the guy called himself lizard and they gave me my second blessing and stranger hug on the island).  Unfortunately, being first on the trail had a horrible consequence.  No one had broken through the spider webs!!!! It started with me walking through a few webs, no big deal, until I realized that the spiders were getting attached to me as I walked through their webs.  An embarrassing amount of screaming and dancing went on as I got all the bitty red spiders off my bod.

My new strategy was to use a stick to "relocate" the webs as I walked.  I am sure that it looked like I was blessing the trail before me as I waved the stick except for when I feverishly whipped my stick through webs that I had missed.  All the spiders were tiny and I really did try to gently set them aside until I came to the Monster.  A huge black and yellow spider that caused quite a bit more screaming because I had gotten really close to him before I realized he was there!!!

This made mile three and four a bit slower, but I finally came across a K. resident going the opposite direction.  This time I hugged him out of sheer happiness that my spider-plight was over.  He told me a bit of his story, wished me well, and I continued on.  

Mile five and six I did really fast.  The scenery was getting better, the weather was holding and I could even jpg a bit.  At mile six, there was another crossing that I did without getting wet, and I past the camp that a lot of people stay at as a halfway path.  

The cool thing about this path was that you alternate between dropping into lush green valleys (with little waterfalls at each one) to climbing around dramatic cliffs.  Each time you rounded one, it felt like you were walking off the end of the world.  

Mile six and seven is where the famed narrow edges are.  The trail is very exposed, above you is loose rock and dirt, below you is loose rock and dirt.  You could see evidence of rockslides and the side of the mountain was SO eroded.  

Luckily, there weather was turning out to be phenomenal, and there had not been a drop of rain.  I had seen how slippery the mud was here while I fell repeatedly on my previous hikes, so I was really feeling blessed because the trail was mostly dry and I never felt unsafe.  

In mile eight, the stunning green ridges of the K valley were coming into view.  Mile nine and ten had a dramatic red hill and one of my favorite moments so far.  I looked out over the edge and saw a goat hanging out like a model.  Seriously, he was in perfect view of the boats, helicopters and hikers.  He was totally posing.  I was so distracted by him that I didn't notice the pack behind me...with a bow and arrows.  I froze, horrified that someone was going to shot the goat right in front of me!!! Finally I scampered away.  

So where around mile ten was the last and by far the most difficult water crossing.  I saw my first K dwelling family (the girl was probably around 8).  I could not wait to see the "village" of people who had abandoned civilization to live at the K beach.  

So far, I hadn't had many interactions with others.  There was one couple that I hiked with a bit who had stayed the previous night at the six mile mark.  I was keeping such a quick pace that no one passed me except one of my favorite random meet ups ever.  

Around mile five, a group of three guys, a father and his two sons-in-laws.  Oh my gosh these dynamics  were awesome trail entertainment!  FIL was a total badass who was on his 11th K trail hike. He was flying and SILs were trying to keep up.  I felt like it was this ultimate test for SILs.  I hit it off with FIL right away as he had traveled to a lot of the same countries as I had. He was planning an expedition to Nepal so we spent a long time talking about that.  He loved my hammock fail stories and my windy tarp disasters and I was completely enthralled at his K stories and the right of passage he was putting his SILs through.  

The best was when we got to a river crossing.  He had run ahead and forged through, he then stood there and watched to see the paths his SILs chose.  He offered no help to us on the best way and laughed as we wobbled through!  

We finished the last mile through a muddy flat path and entered into a never ending camp ground.  There were so many people and some with very elaborate set ups.  Lots of nakies, men in sarongs, and a surprising amount of hunter types.  

I chatted up some, but you would not believe how quiet and private it was for how many people were there.  

I checked out the beach (rough waves), the waterfall (nakie showering), and the caves (gorgeous).  I setup my hammock and tarp (still no rain or wind!).

I did have a real problem though-my feet were a blistery, soggy, mush.  With all the river crossings and miles walked on top of my already messy feet from previous wet hikes, it was almost unbearable to take another step-and I could not find my flops :( (I found them on my way back the next day at mile 2, they must have fallen out of my pack).

One of my toes I named trip-bliss for having what looked like a blood blister on top of a regular blister on top of the previous blood blister.  It also was the only non blissful part of my trip.  

The other toes were not much better, and I pretty much had to sit in the hammock all afternoon/night to try to heal them as much as possible before my 11miles the next day. 

I was lucky to have a second day off perfect weather for my trip back.  I put on my toe socks, a plastic baggy, and then my shoes to protect my feet (and took off my shoes four all river crossings).  It was a very painful 11 miles, but at least they didn't get any worse.  I met some new friends, one group I called New Kids On the Block that cracked me up for a good bit.  I was a lot slower this time (the way there I had made it in just under 6.5 hours, this time was just over 8) because of the foot pain, drawn out river crossings , and massive crowds.  

Because I had left so early on the way out, I hadn't experienced the goats off people that do the first two miles throughout the day.   Everyone looked sup clean and smelled so nice, and then there was me-disgusting, with plastic bags on my feet and an under-hat-fro from the ocean.  

I chatted with a dad and his three daughters from aspen.  They were hilarious and very excited to see me celebrate at the end!  I barely got off the trail before I yanked my shoes off and slipped my miraculously-found flops on my feet.  

I do have to say, I ran out of water with 5 miles left.  I did a waterfall drink (I had a filter, I was just so exhausted) and then did a big filter drink at mile two.  When I finished, I drank from a water fountain, but I was cramping like crazy in my fingers on the drive back until I was able to stop and chug a bottle.  

I had sweat so much, my clothes were drenched and I really should have stopped and filtered earlier.  I was just so desperate to get off my feet!!!

I'm very happy to be done, it was amazing and the trail was not to difficult or long AND because the conditions were so nice, it didn't feel dangerous at all.  I only got one mosquito bite the whole 22 miles and met a ton of people.

Going to switch coasts tomorrow and hopefully get on a paddle and surf board!

Kauai day 4

I had tried unsuccessfully to find Queens Pond on one of the previous day's, but I was determined to find it this morning and I am so glad that I did.  I started early into resort vile aka Princeville.  This was a necessity, as there was very little parking.  The hike down was yet another crazy slippery walk with a lot of "unintended sit and slides".  Then the short path opened to a gorgeous waterfall and just past the waterfall was the ocean.  I was not on a beach, but hard, volcanic rock cliffs that made the most beautiful formations that the waves were crashing into.  I was completely alone on the cliffs and not really sure where the pond actually was.  I also had left my muddy flops at the waterfall (do not do this!). The rocks were killing my feet, but I was too stubborn to go back and I kept thinking I was at it.  

Finally I found it...it was BEAUTIFUL!!! I'm not sure if people sit in it at low tide, but the waves were crashing in and again I was alone, so I scrambled down and got in just enough to get scared before I climbed out.  

If there would have been crowds, this place would not have had the same charm, but I didn't see anyone until the very end, and I'm guessing it would be an amazing place to see the sun rise.  

With a bit of sun, I drove up to Haena beach and set up my hammock.  It was crowded there, as the weather was nice and this beach is connected to tunnels beach where there is snorkeling.

I napped to give my poor feet a rest and got a bit of a sunburn.  I couldn't contain myself any longer...I needed to get fully in the ocean on my first sunny beach day!!!  

I snorkels all around Tunnels and saw a ton of fish.  Nothing like the snorkeling in Honduras, but there was just enough to satisfy to beach craving.  

I also saw the caves in this area (pretty but not spectacular), on the way to scoping out the parking situation for tomorrow.  Ahhhhhhhhh, it was so crowded.  So.  Many.  People.  

The first part of the Kalalau trail is very popular and accessible, also Ke'e beach at the start of the trail was gorgeous.  I got to watch the sun set there along with probably 50other people aiming their phones at the sun dropping.  

I settled in for a car night because the mosquitoes were out of control here.  I hadn't really seen them yet, but now I entered into a war that would occupy the next hour.  

First I had one window open.  No way.  Then I opened all four just a tiny crack.  Massive attack.  Next, I set up my mosquito net over two windows.  Where were these beotchs coming from.  I was slapping them dead left and right, but they were still getting in!!! I couldn't believe I was getting outsmarted by these s**theads.  

Finally I set myself up in my fleece pants and jacket and tried to sleep with over 10 bites.  Jerks.

Just fyi, I was crazy nervous about the trail.  One person out of five made it sound like no big deal.  The other four were warning me not to go, especially with the recent rain.  I had a trash bag to cover my pack and rain gear, but I was nervous about the notorious water crossings and exposed edges.  I knew my legs were strong enough, but what about the slippery conditions, mosquitoes, and inevitable blisters???  Breathe in breathe out.